Oviedo in Spain: Sights, cider tradition and tips for Asturias' capital
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
The waitress pours our cider into a glass in a high arc. Asturian cider is served "escanciada" —the cider flows from a bottle held high above the head into a low-set glass, beginning to bubble slightly.
Our waitress doesn't even have to look while pouring.
"You have to drink it all in one go," she says. A sip of cider – about a fifth of a glass – is called a culete or culín . It should be drunk immediately, before the fizz dissipates.
No sooner said than done: We gulp down the cider. It tastes fruity and immediately makes you want more.
Asturias produces around 80% of Spain's cider , about 45 million liters per year – and the majority is consumed right here. As we stroll along Calle Gascona , the famous Boulevard de la Sidra , this doesn't surprise us. In Oviedo's old town, one cider house follows the next.
Asturian cuisine between sea and mountains
Film director Woody Allen once described Oviedo as "a city straight out of a fairy tale." Looking at the menu, however, we feel more like we've landed in a land of plenty.
Typical specialties include, for example:
Pixin – small pieces of monkfish in a batter coating
Chorizo in cider
Parrochas con Jamón – fried anchovies with ham
Asturian cheeses such as the famous Cabrales
Andaricas – cooked or grilled crabs
The cuisine of the region combines products from the Cantabrian Sea with traditional dishes from the mountainous regions of Asturias.
Woody Allen and the sculptures of Oviedo
The temptation to simply sit and sample our way through the menu is strong – but we have a date: Woody Allen is waiting for us.
The director first visited Oviedo in 2002 when he accepted the prestigious Prince of Asturias Award . He liked the city so much that he later returned to film. In his film Vicky Cristina Barcelona, the main characters spend a weekend at the historic Hotel de la Reconquista .
From there it is only a few minutes to the Woody Allen statue in Calle Milicias Nacionales .
Oviedo is a city of sculptures anyway: more than 100 works of art stand in public spaces. The statue of the comic book character Mafalda is particularly popular .
Perhaps the most beautiful spot, however, belongs to La Regenta , the bronze statue of the protagonist of one of the most famous Spanish novels. It stands directly in front of the cathedral and overlooks the square.
Oviedo Cathedral and the Cámara Santa
An Asturian proverb says:
“Ser español es un orgullo, ser asturiano es un título.” “To be Spanish is a pride – to be Asturian is a title. ”
Asturias was the only region of Spain that was never permanently conquered by the Moors. For some, the region is therefore considered the "original Spain".
The Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo was built between the 13th and 18th centuries, primarily in the Gothic and Baroque styles. Its most important attraction, however, is the Cámara Santa , the Holy Chamber.
This pre-Romanesque chapel was built in the 8th century by King Alfonso II to house important relics.
Among other things, two famous crosses are located here:
Cruz de los Ángeles – the landmark of the city of Oviedo
Cruz de la Victoria – the symbol of the Asturias region
According to legend, the Cross of Victory contains the standard of King Pelayo from the Battle of Covadonga , which is traditionally considered the beginning of the Reconquista.
The Cámara Santa also houses the Santo Sudario – a cloth that is said to have covered the face of Christ after his death.
Pre-Romanesque churches near Oviedo (UNESCO World Heritage Site)
Slightly above the city lie two of the most important pre-Romanesque buildings in Spain:
Santa María del Naranco
San Miguel de Lillo
Both are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the pre-Romanesque buildings of Asturias . From up here, there is a beautiful view over the compact old town of Oviedo and the green hills of the surrounding area.
The main sights in Oviedo
Those visiting the city for the first time should not miss these places:
San Salvador Cathedral with the historic Cámara Santa
Santa María del Naranco – one of the most famous pre-Romanesque buildings in Europe
San Miguel de Lillo – early medieval church from the 9th century
Calle Gascona – Oviedo's famous cider street
Plaza de El Fontán with traditional market
Woody Allen statue and the many sculptures of the city center
Thanks to the compact old town, most of Oviedo's sights can be easily explored on foot.
Market in the Plaza de El Fontán
Back in the old town, we hear a faint rumble. Perhaps rain is on the way – or our stomachs are acting up again.
We're heading to the farmers' market in Plaza de El Fontán . Here you'll find regional products like cheese, beans, and of course, cider.
Culture makes you hungry. Fortunately, a good restaurant is never far away in Oviedo.
Tips for Oviedo in Spain
Arrival in Oviedo
There are currently no direct flights to Oviedo-Asturias Airport . Most journeys involve a layover, for example with Iberia.
A practical alternative:
Direct flight Frankfurt – Bilbao
then bus ride to Oviedo (approx. 3 hours)
market
Plaza de El Fontán
Traditional market with regional products. Thursday and Sunday between 10 am and 2 pm .
Hotels in Oviedo
Historic 18th-century hotel in the center of Oviedo. The building is a national monument and served as a filming location for Vicky Cristina Barcelona . Double rooms with breakfast from around €150 .
Centrally located hotel, some rooms offer views of the cathedral. Double rooms with breakfast from around €90 .
Restaurants in Oviedo
Typical Asturian cuisine in the heart of the famous cider street, Calle Gascona . Large terrace and regional products.
Upscale modern Spanish cuisine near the cathedral.
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