Canoeing through Algonquin Provincial Park: Three days in the Ontario wilderness
Updated: 3 hours ago
Three days canoeing through Algonquin Provincial Park : Between portages, campfires, and secluded lakes, I experienced Canada's wilderness up close. Here you'll find GPS data, practical tips , and everything you need to know to plan a multi-day canoe trip .
After the golden late summer weather of the past few weeks, it's rainy and grey today, the very day we begin our canoe trip. Annie Logan, our guide, takes it in stride. "Nature needs water. Normally the forest would be a riot of color right now, but this year it's been so dry that many trees shed their leaves before they even changed color."
Even in the rain, Canada's famous golden October has its charm:
The maple tree glows an intense red and seems to fluoresce in the otherwise colorless wisps of fog.
Aspens and birches scatter patches of yellow light into the dark green of the Scots pines and hemlocks. The delicate needles of the golden-tinged larches sparkle with a filigree effect.
We grab our paddles and launch our canoes into the lake. Our mission: to explore some of the more than 1,500 lakes of Algonquin Provincial Park by boat.
Key facts about the canoe tour
♡ Factor: ♡♡♡♡♡
Length: Guided multi-day tour
Duration: 3 days
Elevation gain: dependent on the portages
Difficulty: Medium
Highlight: Portages, campfires and camping in the middle of the wilderness
Portages and campfires
The magic word when canoeing in Canada is "portage." On the stretch between the various lakes, boats and gear have to be carried overland. That might sound daunting at first. But when Annie lifts the boat for me so I can put the wooden carrying yoke on my shoulder, I'm surprised: at 27 kilograms, it's significantly lighter than it looks. Our first portage, from Canoe Lake to Joe Lake, is just under 200 meters long.
"This is just so you can imagine how heavy the stuff is – normally it's not this short and easy," Annie grinned.
We paddled leisurely past granite boulders and small islands towards Tepee Lake . Conifers had clung to the rocks with their roots, their dark silhouettes standing out against the mist.
Simple campsites are located along the lakes. Each consists of a fire pit and a box with a hole in it, which serves as an outdoor toilet. There are no other luxuries.
My tip: We fortunately didn't have to worry about the planning, but had the all-inclusive package from Algonquin Outfitters booked. The company has been renting canoes and equipment in the park for over 60 years and also offers guided tours. Everything from tents to fully organized multi-day trips is possible. At the store, we received food for three days, a sleeping bag, a sleeping mat, and a tent – all packed in waterproof bags.
On the lake, we spot a loon - Canada's national bird. Its mysterious call floats across the water, reminding me more of a howling wolf than a bird.
"The loon calls out when it sees a bald eagle," Annie explains. "The eagles sometimes steal its young."
And indeed, a little later one of the mighty birds of prey circles above the treetops.
We gather firewood at the campsite. Everything is soaking wet, but the dry twigs from the coniferous trees burn surprisingly well thanks to their essential oils. Soon a warming campfire is crackling, on which we cook our dinner.
Thankfully, the rain stopped towards evening. We sat contentedly by the fire. After a day on the water, almost everything tasted good anyway.
A night filled with moose calls
Looking out at the lake, Annie asks what we hope to get out of the tour.
"I want to see a moose!", I reply.
A plaintive sound wakes me up at night.
"Did you hear that?" whispers Kattrin.
Shortly afterwards, the call sounds again.
"I think that's a moose."
The next morning we ask Annie, who slept in a hammock between two trees, if she also heard the noises.
“Yes, of course,” she says. “But I’ve never heard a moose call before. I’m not sure if it was a moose or if someone was imitating a moose call during the rut.”
In search of the moose
During the next portage, we encounter two canoeists coming towards us.
"Did you also hear the moose calling all night?" they asked.
We are absolutely thrilled! So they really were moose. That gives me hope for my first moose sighting.
Less enjoyable is the next portage to Ink Lake. It's almost three kilometers over rocks and roots, with steps leading uphill and downhill. Katrin and I share the work. I carry the canoe on the way there, she on the way back.
Not so Annie. She hauls her boat and luggage in a single trip. Normally, she's alone on the lakes with her dog.
A narrow water channel branches off from Ink Lake into a marshy area. Instead of dense forests, only a few golden-yellow larches grow here.
The canal is so narrow that we have to maneuver several times to get around the bends.
A completely different landscape – and great fun with the canoe.
Three days in the wilderness
It's our last night in Algonquin Provincial Park. The smoke from our campfire rises into the starry sky.
I ask Annie what she loves so much about this place.
"I find it impressive that it is such an old park, full of history."
Voyageurs have already traveled here in their boats. Moose, wolves, bears live here… and so do we. There are endless opportunities for paddling and hiking. It is my home.”
Even though we didn't see a moose, these three days were a Canadian outdoor dream. Rain, mystical fog, and sunshine alternated. There were campfires, stars, red maple leaves, deep lakes, small rivers, and stories around the fire.
Click on the first photo to start the image gallery:
I even take spectacular paddle shots in the fog… … before breakfast. We are also on the water at sunset. You have to drive through the beaver dams at a bit of speed. Our dreamlike campsite right on the lake Funny sign at the Portage
Information:
General information about destinations in the province, as well as activities , attractions and accommodation options, can be found on the Destination Ontario website .
Hiking trails, campsite bookings, maps and all information about Algonquin Provincial Park can be found on the Ontario Parks website.
Arrival:
Condor, for example, offers direct flights from Frankfurt to Toronto.
An electronic travel document (eTA) is required for entry into Canada .
There are public buses that run as far as Huntsville, on the edge of Algonquin Provincial Park.
Parkbus offers shuttle services from Toronto to several stops in the park, including Canoe Lake.
Accommodation:
Those planning a multi-day canoe trip should ideally reserve their desired backcountry campsites early: https://www.ontarioparks.ca/park/algonquin/camping.
You can truly pamper yourself at the historic Arowhon Pines Resort , located directly in the park. The cozy wooden cabins are all situated by the lake. From here, you can set off directly for paddling, hiking, or swimming. Equipment can be rented on site.
Tour operators & equipment:
Algonquin Outfitters has everything you need for a canoeing adventure. From individual pieces of equipment to complete all-inclusive packages, they have it all.
Best time:
Canoeing in Algonquin Provincial Park begins as soon as the ice melts – usually in the last week of April, but sometimes it can take until mid-May. Until then, the water is still icy cold. It gets warmer in June, but then black flies and mosquitoes arrive. July is pleasantly warm, but the hot weather can be strenuous for long portages. August is an ideal month, as the mosquitoes have almost disappeared and the days are warm with cool nights. The famous autumn foliage changes in late September and early October. Nights can get quite cold.
Maps:
There is an official canoe map for Algonquin Park , which includes canoe routes, campsites, portages, launching points, and historically interesting sights.
Bears:
Although Algonquin Provincial Park is home to "only" black bears, you still need to take bear-safe precautions. Here you'll find tips for bear-safe camping in Canada .
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