Denmark: 2-day kayak tour through the islands of South Fyn Archipelago
- Wibke Helfrich
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
Blue sea and white sandy beaches, plus 55 small islands and a castle. Here you'll find all the information and GPS data you need for the kayak tour through the South Fyn Archipelago from Svendborg, Denmark, to a cozy shelter right by the sea.
On the first day the wind is blowing from the south with gusts of up to 70 km/h. Denmark or not - this has little to do with the South Seas. Frederik Laursen from the kayak rental company " Lifeplan Kajak & Friluftsliv ", who brought the boat to the campsite for us, doesn't really want to let us out on the water. "You can drive a bit to Troense and back. Then it will be easier and you'll be protected on the way home," he says. But we are determined to spend the night in the Hegnet Shelter and try to paddle the almost 20 kilometers (if we take the direct route). Frederik gives us a double kayak (just to be on the safe side) and warns us again to stay close to the shore at all times and not to cross the Lunkebugten under any circumstances .
Did you know?
In March 2024, the South Fyn Archipelago in Denmark became a UNESCO Global Geopark. This designation recognises the area's unique geological and natural heritage, including its glacial landscapes, islands and marine environment. The 2,733 km² geopark encompasses both land and sea, with 1,304 km² of marine territory and a total coastline of 551 km, comprising more than 55 large and small islands.
South Fyn Archipelago Denmark kayak
I have uploaded a more detailed description of the tour and the GPS data to Outdooractive .
Stormy start
It's still fairly sunny in the morning, but the wind is already blowing the leaves horizontally from the trees. We pack everything in waterproof bags.
I check five times whether my camera equipment, my sleeping bag, my ISO mat and my change of clothes are packed waterproof.
At first, as we set off from Svendborg Sund Camping , we're still in the slipstream. We think, "This is going pretty well." But as soon as we turn the corner toward Valdemars Slot, the waves are several meters high. They lap over the boat in a huge bow wave, and I'm soaking wet. Lars wants to take a break. Which, in retrospect, turns out to be a mistake... But for now, we'll pull the boat onto the beach and visit Valdemars Slot.
South Sea
Valdemars Slot : Old walls and modern art.
The beautiful castle, located directly on the sea, only reopened on May 24. Its more recent history reads like a bad fairy tale: When the former lord of the castle died, he left the castle to his two daughters, who had a heated argument (a feast for the Danish gossip press). The younger sister sold off more or less all of the furnishings.
A tunnel with hiccups
The current owner of the castle, Louise Iuel-Brockdorff Albinus, sees herself as a guardian for the next generation. She and her husband, Nikolaj Albinus, have tried to reclaim the inventory at numerous auctions. But there are still many empty rooms. The 11th-generation owners are now filling them with contemporary art. Many of the art objects, such as the gigantic foot in the former riding hall or the hiccup audio installation in the tunnel, were created specifically for these spaces. The mix of old and new is cool. The coolest thing, actually, is how relaxed everyone is with one another. But more on that later...
Click on the first image to see the photos in large:
Always against the wind
When we try to get back on board after touring the castle and enjoying a snack at the café, it proves extremely difficult. High waves splash into the boat before we can even close the splash guard . While we were relatively dry before, we're completely soaked afterward.
We paddle as hard as we can to beat the wind and waves.
Even if our arms hurt, we can't let go, otherwise we'll be pushed back.
At three o'clock in the afternoon our arms are tired and we hope to reach the shelter soon.
Finally, we see the two wooden huts above the snow-white beach. Just as we step ashore, the sun comes out – we're enjoying the South Fyn Archipelago!
Super cozy: the Hegnet Shelter above the sea
We jump excitedly out of the water and rip off our clothes. Luckily, the sun is still shining, our clothes are fluttering in the wind and drying, and we -refreshed and dry - enjoy the huts' fantastic location.
Behind us, the rockroses bloom in bright pink, in front of us the snow-white beach shines against the azure sea.
Click on the first image to start the photo gallery.
The Hegnet Shelters are incredibly large and spacious. A hatch opens at the front, providing shelter from the wind even in drizzle. There's a fireplace , and you pay into an honesty box at the top of the estate. For the Danes, it's a given that no one cheats on their bill (I hope you do too). There's also a small restroom with a sink and fresh water.
Super nice: The Danes
When we go to make ourselves a cup of tea, we realize we have the wrong adapter for our gas cartridge. It's a shame, especially since we only have things with us that we can prepare with hot water.
But help is on the way: Nikolaj from the castle (incredibly and extremely kindly) sets out to bring us a new gas cylinder.
When he arrives, Martins, a fisherman from the Azores, is there, setting up crab traps. Completely relaxed, the two begin to chat. We are overjoyed and delighted by the sincerity with which we were helped.
At night, we lie in the shelter. The rain patters on the roof, and we can see the storm through the round Plexiglas windows.
How cozy it is in here! It's hard to imagine a more beautiful place to stay right by the sea.
Info:
The Visit Fyn website provides general information as well as tips on activities, accommodation and restaurants.
Svendborg Sund campsite is beautifully located right by the sea. Here you can stay in cozy cabins, glamping tents, or in your own tent or caravan.
The cozy Hegnet Shelter cannot be reserved in advance. Allocation is on a first-come, first-served basis. At the house just above the cabins, there is a toilet and a box where money must be deposited. Firewood can also be purchased here.
You can rent kayaks and equipment at Lifeplan Kayak & Freeair Sports . Frederik Laursen also organizes the race around Langeland and offers guided tours.
At the harbor of Svendborg there is a Kayakomat where you can rent kayaks around the clock.
Frederiksø 3A, 5700 Svendborg
There are also two Kayakomats on Langeland, one in Rudkøbing Harbor and one in Ristinge Harbor
On the website of Waldemar Slot you will find all information about opening hours and current exhibitions.
Here you can find more blog posts about outdoor activities and accommodation in Denmark .
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